Handmade Custom Knives and Jewellery from the Isle of Wight

NASH WIGHT METALWORKS

Handmade custom knives from the Isle of Wight for discerning collectors, outdoor enthusiasts, chefs and more!

Handmade slipjoint knives by nash wight knives

Knives I make

Handmade custom Slipjoint pocket knife in RWL34, croscut carbon fibre and 316 stainless steel

Slipjoints

Slipjoint pocket knives are a classic style of pocket knife where the tension of the back spring holds the blade in position open and closed and at half stop. They are a challenge to build but a lot of fun. I take extra special care to “dial in” the HRC of the springs, usually to between 44 and 47 Rockwell C. Whilst slipjoints can be made from either stainless steels or high carbon, my preference is to use Stainless steels (especially RWL-34) as the pivot point can very easily trap moisture and rust, which can quickly ruin a knife.

Sheath knives

I can usually make any style of sheath knife, such as this bushcraft knife and firesteel set, see my store for currently available and ready to ship handmade custom knives. I can build sheath knives in any steel you like, but I typically use High carbon steel for these. Please read up on current UK knife law before buying a knife, as well as my basic knife care guide for looking after high carbon blades.

handmade custom bushcraft knife with fire steel in 1075+cr and stabilised walnut

Materials

I typically use only high quality steels such as Stainless RWL-34 and Elmax, and High Carbon steels such as 01 tool steel, 80crv2, and often, in the case of forged integral knives, silver steel, the only exception to this is if a customer specifically asks me to build a blade from something sentimental, such as his a leaf spring from his grandads old jeep or something, but this is really not recommended! If you do decide to commission a blade and have a specific high end steel in mind, it may be the case that I am not able to Heat treat it inhouse, so it may have to be sent away for processing, due to issues such as requiring a cryogenic treatment (immersing in liquid nitrogen) which I am not currently set up for.

Handle materials are purchased from well known and reputable vendors, and I generally like to work with resin stabilised exotics or highly figured dense and oily hardwood, though anything is possible, if you want something specific, get in touch via paul@nashwight.com to discuss a commission.

Stabilised wood handle blocks, left to right, curly narra, dyed ash burl, london plane burl

Heat treatment and testing

Oxford 150A rockwell hardness tester, used for testing the hardness of knife components

I heat treat all my knives in a temperature controlled kiln (AKA a heat treat oven) to ensure the best results!

All my knives are tested both for hardness, using an Oxford 150A rockwell hardness tester, and for micro fissures using a standard dye penetration test, nothing leaves the shop without these.

As mentioned above, certain steels may require sending off to a commercial heat treatment service.

It`s important to understand about hardness of knife steel and components, as there are sometimes trade-offs of eg, hardness vs toughness, so this needs to be considered when deciding on the use for the knife, and will be discussed should you commission a blade. The website knife steel nerds is an amazing resource and treasure trove of info, written by a professional metallurgist for both makers and users of knives, highly recommended! He has also written a book, available on Amazon here (affiliate link)

Forging

High temperature gas forge for forging knives

I do a mixture of forging and stock removal techniques, and you should probably take with a pinch of salt the claims of people that claim to “forge 90%” of the knife, whilst there are some incredible bladesmiths in the world, basically all of them will do stock removal (grinding, drilling, sanding, filing) on top of the hammer work, and I am no exception. After forging there is still much work to do, and indeed the forging also means that additional steps must be taken in the heat treatment. This is why I largely keep forging to a minimum, and really only forge knives that are, for example, much bigger, or are integral knives where the blade, tang and bolsters are all one piece. Slipjoint knives are generally not forged, unless made from pattern welded steel or a laminate like “cu-mai”(steel laminated with copper). Also my stainless steel blades are not forged in general, due to the risks of the steel hardening in the air. You can read more here, a fantastic site if you are interested in the metallurgy of knife making!

Handmade Jewellery

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